Monday, December 29, 2008
Saturday, December 27, 2008
Well, last week there were hundreds of well fed sand flies and mosquitoes on the small Caribbean island of Utila....fattened with my blood leaving me looking like I have the pox. Bare with me while I have a little catharsis by sharing my torment with you all. Imagine being bitten about 250 times (at least...I counted), legs, arms, neck, feet, face, ears...anything exposed being assaulted with small punctures, sucked, and injected with a relentless irritant. Now imagine being in the tropics where the slightest...and I mean the slightest exertion (i.e. breathing, beating heart, etc) precipitates some kind of healthy sweating.
Now imagine those 250+ bites being antagonized by the tropical heat and sweating...so much so that you succumb to the perverted seduction and begin to scratch yourself with increasing vigor all the while knowing you are facilitating your own deeper decent into itch hell. Such was my life on Utila, a place the guide books say is "notorious for voracious sandflies." I don't think I have read a more accurate description of anything in any guidebook. But in some kind of twisted yin yang balancing, the one thing that brought relief, besides unconsciousness, was salt water. When I slipped (or ungracefully fell) into the ocean, all was quieted. The itching stopped. There was peace. And as I dried in the sun, the sea salt crusting on my skin, the relief persisted.
But alas, with a freshwater shower at the end of the day, hell sprang forth yet again and I helplessly scratched myself and spread the barely effective hydrocortizone ointment over my wounds...and then drank a bit of rum and tried to distract myself by conversing with all the characters that live in or move through that strange little island community. And in the end would I say the torment was worth it? Absolutely. But I still have scabs all over my body and I still look like I have the pox. Thankfully, it has not left me the pariah...yet.
Tuesday, December 23, 2008
Sunday, December 21, 2008
We have never been the person on earth we should like to be; circumstances have always tied us to the staid and commonplace and respectable; but when we become an angel we hope to be right devilish at times. And that is an idea that some one should work out - Hell as a place of reward for the Puritans. But it is possible that that elderly Mephistopheles, with the smack of a canting Calvinistic archangel about him, Bernard Shaw, has already done so somewhere.Right devilish at times...seems I have already figured this one out a bit. But I harbor the same hope as Mr. Marquis. That's all. For now.
Monday, December 15, 2008
Sunday, December 14, 2008
Friday, December 12, 2008
Thursday, December 11, 2008
Monday, December 8, 2008
Friday, December 5, 2008
Thursday, December 4, 2008
Tuesday, December 2, 2008
Wednesday, January 9, 2008
Saturday, January 5, 2008
- The brilliant chaos of Parque Centro
- Cafe No Se...but of course
- New friends that it feels like I have known forever....
- Fireworks, a lot of fireworks
- Illegal Mezcal and Tequila
- Poetry and singing and toasts....many toasts
- Love and friendship and honesty and hope...
- Lou Reed and Dylan and four chords and the truth
- Nora and Barbara singing in German...the beauty of it all needing no translation
- Steve quietly treating me like a queen...never in want for a thing
- To bed at 6:00am!
Steve...the sweet Aussie with the most infectious smile and a quiet kindness. Have a big crush on you boy!
Mike, you are a kindred soul, truly. We are cut from similar clothe...and yes, "water finds it's own level." And your baritone singing "If I were a rich man..." is still an ear worm in my head!
Nora, you are gorgeous and loving and brave and talented....a Gypsy spirit...and you can drink more mescal than anyone I know!
Barbara, you are a love and a friend...we shall meet again in SF or Germany...."and fuck the bitches and the bastards!"
John. You are a beautiful, patient, accepting man and you ground No Se. Your openness and kindness are an inspiration to me. And thanks for always calling me a cab.
Catherine, a free spirit and new friend....we shall meet by the Sea of Cortez and make our own No Se wherever we need too. Here's to smart kind men in bars everywhere!
Ivy, gorgeous and kind and perpetually smiling. We'll do lunch and talk philosophy next time!
Anna it was an absolute pleasure talking to such a smart young woman. You were great company and I wish you the best in your studies.
Kevin. You are a good man and a great bartender. Thanks for taking on the reading assignment I gave you and for appreciating so much my freaky self. I look forward to seeing you and your girl in Oakland soon.
Vince...I was amazed at how well you found every excuse to use the word lesbian while in my presence...I thank you for calling me your favorite lesbian.
There are more of you....and I could go on, but Cafe No Se is a new touchstone for me, a place of healing and renewal and acceptance. You were all a good-bad influence on me and I felt so much love in that place I am a better woman for it. Thanks for all the hugs and kindness....I will be back....and Mike has promised me that when I return he will quietly pour me a drink and say "welcome home." Indeed Mike, water finds its own level.
To all my friends.... a few photos....
Me & Barbara
Ivy, Anna & Me
Catherine, Mike, Barbara & Nora...at table...typical scene
Anna, ?, Nora, Edwin & Catherine
Me & Steve
Ivy & Elliot's head
Steve & John tending bar
John & Mike
Me & Steve...again!
Map of US...excellent cartoon of US politics!
Vince, me & Barbara
Wednesday, January 2, 2008
Then Jody joined us (see pic below), a sane woman from the states who used to be a stockbroker. She is living in Rio now and her daughter taught English in Argentina and just started working at a local orphanage. Affable, in her late 50s, we drank and when Steve got belligerent about US politics we scattered and Jody asked me if I wanted to join her at another bar run by a really cool Dutch couple. Sure Jody...and so we headed out through the nasty yard and passed the armed guard carrying one of those shotguns (see pic...always be nice to the guards with guns).
Sundogs is cute, tropical, small, has top shelf booze and a quieter crowd. And so we chatted with foxy Jessica from Minneapolis...she told me about going to Cuba on a French catermaran with her French lover and she didn´t spend a dime but still got a picture sent to her from the US state department asking her what the hell she was doing in Cuba...it was a pic of her in a store! Our government is so lovely...it was eventually dropped. While there she listened to Castro give a 7 hour speech in the park...with breaks...apparently this is common. Lastly, she asserted, she only sails south...never north. Been on many boats....her own and other folks. She was gorgeous and sexy....but knew it a bit too much.